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You are probably familiar with the characteristics and advantages of some of the common textile fibers. However, you may not understand the difference between all the various natural and manufactured (synthetic) fibers used in apparel and home furnishings.
The following summarizes the important characteristics and end uses of the major textile fibers, and some of the specialized fibers used in apparel and home furnishings.
Natural Fibers Click on a fiber to expand characteristics, click again to close |
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There are two types of Angora:
MAJOR END USES: Comments - By law, all items containing Angora rabbit hair must be described on the label as containing "Angora rabbit hair." Natural Fiber - made from the fleece of Kashmir goats CHARACTERISTICS:
MAJOR END USES: Comments - Vicuna is the world´s most valuable fiber. Consequently, items containing vicuna are very expensive. Generally, the camel fibers are used only in their natural colors, because of resistance to dyes. Dry cleaning is recommended for all of the Camel Family of fibers. Natural Fiber - made from the fleece of Kashmir goats. CHARACTERISTICS:
MAJOR END USES: Comments - Cashmere fibers range in length from 1-1/4 inch to 3-1/2 inch in length. Since the fleece from 4 to 6 animals is typically needed to make one sweater, cashmere tends to be expensive. Therefore, dry cleaning is preferable. Natural Fiber - cellulosic CHARACTERISTICS:
MAJOR END USES: Natural Fiber CHARACTERISTICS:
MAJOR END USES: Comments - The highest quality hemp comes from the "true" hemp plant called Cannabis Sativa. Sisal hemp and Manila hemp (also known as Abaca) are lower quality hemp fibers. Hemp can have a rather harsh hand. Therefore, it is best utilized in blends with other fibers (i.e. cotton, silk, wool, polyester). Natural Fiber -- made from flax, a vegetable fiber CHARACTERISTICS:
MAJOR END USES: Natural Fiber - (also known as Angora)made from the hair of Angora goats CHARACTERISTICS:
MAJOR END USES: ABACA (Manila Hemp) See characteristics for hemp above. BANANA CHARACTERISTICS:
PINEAPPLE CHARACTERISTICS:
MAJOR END USES: Comments - Banana and Pineapple fibers are best used in blends with other fibers. When blended with silk and polyester, the indigenous banana or pineapple fibers produce an elegant fabric with a distinctive, nubby texture. Combining banana or pineapple fibers with polyester creates a sturdy, yet lightweight material. Natural Fiber - also known as China grass CHARACTERISTICS:
MAJOR END USES: Comments - Best in blends with other softer fibers. Natural Fiber - animal fiber created by the silk worm CHARACTERISTICS:
MAJOR END USES: Natural Fiber - made from the fleece of sheep CHARACTERISTICS:
MAJOR END USES: |
| Manufactured Fibers Click on a fiber to expand characteristics, click again to close |
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Manufactured Fiber - cellulosic-based, made from wood pulp or cotton linters CHARACTERISTICS:
MAJOR END USES: Acetate is a "dry clean only" fiber. However, again, read the label, because many of the new acetate circular knits, that have been out on the market for a few years, are hand washable. So far, there is no washable woven acetate available in the marketplace. Comments - Acetate takes color extremely well. It is also very soft and drapeable. Acetate has been blended with a wide variety of other fibers. Experimenting has also been done with different knitting and weaving techniques, which has resulted in the development of a variety of fabrics suitable for many markets. Prior to these developments, the major uses for acetate in apparel were as a liner in coats, jackets, blazers, etc., and as a major fabric in special occasion dresses - acetate velvets, crepes, taffetas, and satins were ideal for this market. Because of these new fabric developments, acetate has been elevated to the designer level with many major designers using acetate in their lines. Manufactured Fiber CHARACTERISTICS:
MAJOR END USES: Comments - Acrylic is a soft drapeable fabric which provides warmth without being heavy. It takes color beautifully. Although acrylic has traditionally been a fall/winter fabric, with a wonderful resemblance to wool, acrylic has recently been used in developing some light weight circular knits and blends which lend themselves to trans-seasonal dressing as well. Acrylic is comfortable to wear. It feels like wool. Yet, it is easy care and is machine washable or dry cleanable. Manufactured Fiber - activated carbon from cocoanut shell and other sources CHARACTERISTICS:
MAJOR END USES: BACKGROUND In early usage, the coconut fiber was referred to as coir. Although the earliest use of coir dates back as far as the 11th Century A.D. in India where coir was used for ropes and cordage, recent production advancements of coconut shell activated carbon has made it a useful fiber for today’s performance apparel. Coconut shell charcoal is the raw material used in the manufacture of activated carbon, a recycled sustainable material. This new process utilizes only high quality coconuts with origins in Vietnam, Indonesia and the Philippines. Activated carbon comes from the coconut husks, which is a waste product of the water filter industry, and is then refined through a scientific formula and production process to make the fiber. PROCESSING ACTIVATED CARBON The process of manufacturing activated carbon begins with the carbonization of coconut shell carbon to create the charcoal. Any carbon material such as coconut shell, wood, or paddy husk can be used in this process, but the activated carbon manufactured from coconut shell is considered superior to other sources. The small macrospores structure in coconut shell renders it more effective for the adsorption of gas / vapor. The process of making activated carbons consists of crushing the coconut shell in a hammer mill to the required size, and then pulverizing in a ball mill. The shell powder is digested with zinc chloride. The mass is then activated at elevated temperature, quenched and leached by diluted hydrochloric acid, and dried in a tray drier. In the steam treatment activation process, the fully matured, dried, and cleaned coconuts are burned in the presence of a limited supply of air, sufficient enough to produce carbonization, a non-graphite form of carbon, which increases the adsorption properties. MANUFACTURING CARBON ACTIVATED FIBER AND FABRIC Activated carbon is used as a natural fiber enhancer that adds new performance qualities to blended yarns. During the production of a polyester and an activated carbon blended fiber, a patented process is used to create a protective layer that coats the activated carbon. If no protective layer is used, the polyester will fill up the activated carbon pores when the polyester polymer is melted to make the fiber. This can cause the deactivation of the activated carbon. During the yarn processing and fabric production, the method covers and protects the carbon fiber pores. The final step in the fabric production removes this protective layer, exposing the activated carbon pores. Further fabric washing continues to remove this protective layer, exposing more of the activated carbon pores, and increasing the capacity for absorbency. Typically, 40% to 50% of activated carbon in a blended yarn is adequate to create the activated carbon absorption benefits. Manufactured Fiber - cellulosic-based made from the pulp of the bamboo stem CHARACTERISTICS:
MAJOR END USES: BACKGROUND Historically, the use of bamboo goes back thousands of years for items such as paper, building materials, weapons and needles, to name a few. In the late 19th Century and the early 20th Century, bamboo was an important structural element in women's apparel, including uses in bustles and as corset ribs or stays. In recent years, new fiber technologies have been applied to bamboo, which has made advanced fiber development possible. As a result, bamboo is now being used in a broad array of textile and fashion applications. PRODUCTION Today's bamboo is a cellulosic fiber, made from the pulp of the bamboo stem. Bamboo fiber is part of the bast family of fibers, which includes such fibers as hemp and flax. Bamboo needs to be broken down with chemicals, and the liquid is forced through a spinneret to create the fiber. This process, known as the viscose production process, is the same extrusion procedure used to produce rayon and soy fiber. As part of the process of turning the fiber into yarn, the yarn is boiled in lye and soaked in carbon disuslfide. This is not an environmentally friendly production process. Bamboo fiber is also not inherently antimicrobial, as is sometime implied. Bamboo produced using this method is referred to as bamboo rayon or bamboo viscose. However, a more environmentally friendly process for manufacturing the bamboo fiber is being used in Europe. In this process, the woody part of the bamboo is broken down from the walls of the bamboo stalk, and the bamboo fiber is crushed mechanically. The raw fiber is then processed in environmentally-friendly enzymes, soaked in water, and washed. The bamboo fiber is then spun into yarn, using the worsted and ring spinning system. In fine counts, the yarn has a silky, cashmere-like touch. The fiber can also be blended with Tencel®, cotton, and other fibers. A similar manufacturing process is used to produce linen fabric from flax or hemp. Bamboo fabric made from this process is sometimes called bamboo linen. Developed in 2005, Litrax-1® bamboo process produces high quality bamboo linen that allows the fiber to remain strong and very durable. The same manufacturing process is used to produce linen fabric from flax or hemp. Manufactured Fiber CHARACTERISTICS:
MAJOR END USES: Comments - Elastoester is a substitute for spandex, and can be used wherever a stretch fiber is needed or desired. Manufactured Fiber - cellulosic-based CHARACTERISTICS:
MAJOR END USES: Comments - This is the newest cellulosic fiber, and a new brand name that you may have seen recently is Tencel®. This fiber is cellulosic, and it is very similar to rayon in appearance. The major difference between lyocell and rayon is that lyocell is much more durable and has a much stronger wet strength. It can also be machine washable and dryable. Manufactured Fiber - available in acrylic, nylon, polyester and rayon CHARACTERISTICS:
MAJOR END USES: Comments - Micro-fibers is not really not a fiber unto itself. Rather, it refers to an ultra-fine fiber, which can be woven or knit into a very high quality fabric construction. Originally, when DuPont introduced the first microfiber in 1989, it was a polyester microfiber. However, today in addition to polyester microfibers, there are also nylon microfibers that have become important in the pantyhose market, rayon microfibers, and acrylic microfibers. One of the important characteristics of microfiber fabrics is that they can be woven so tightly that the fabric can´t be penetrated by wind, rain, or cold. For this reason, raincoat manufacturers have become big users of polyester microfibers. Microfibers also have a wicking ability, which allows perspiration to pass through the fabric. Microfibers are comfortable to wear. Manufactured Fiber - available in acrylic, nylon, polyester and rayon CHARACTERISTICS:
MAJOR END USES: Comments - Nylon is one of the strongest fiber. For this reason it´s used in garments that take a great deal of hard wear, like panty hose and swimwear. The most popular fiber blend used in swimwear today is nylon and spandex. Although nylon is a very strong fiber, it has poor resistance to prolonged exposure to the sun. In addition, spandex breaks down from exposure to chlorine in pool water. Yet, there probably aren´t a lot of old, worn out swimsuits being returned because the fabric has wore out. That´s because the customer has learned through experience that most swimsuits, if worn a lot, won´t last for much more than a season or two. So, in many cases, when a customer shops for swimwear, she may buy as many as two or three at a time in order to get herself through just one season. This is because she has come to know what to expect from these fibers. Manufactured Fiber - (NatureWorks PLA, a corn-based polymer) CHARACTERISTICS:
MAJOR END USES: Comments - The PLA in the fibers name stands for poly-lactic-acid. The fiber can be used in blends with cotton and polyester, or alone. PLA is biodegradable like natural fibers. In the future, it is anticipated that microfibers will be made from the fiber as well. Manufactured Fiber CHARACTERISTICS:
MAJOR END USES: Comments - Of all the manufactured fibers, polyester is the most used. Polyester is the best wash-and-wear fiber. Unfortunately, because of the over-saturation of polyester 20 to 30 years ago, some consumers maintain a negative perception about the fiber. But, that is changing. As with the other manufactured fibers, new developments in polyester have created a new attitude towards manufactured fibers. This is true, not only for manufacturers and designers, but also for consumers. In addition, when polyester is blended with other dry-clean only fibers, like wool, acetate, or rayon, the durability of the blended fabric improves and, in some cases, the fabrics can even be made washable, if the percentage of polyester is high enough. Manufactured Fiber CHARACTERISTICS:
MAJOR END USES: Comments - Polyolefin is also called Olefin or Polypropylene. Of all the fibers, this fiber may least familiar to you. Since its development in 1961, polyolefin has been used almost exclusively in the home furnishings area and the high performance activewear market, for such items as backpacking, canoeing, and mountain climbing apparel. However, within the last few years producers of this fiber have made in-roads into the mainstream apparel market. So, polyolefin is a fiber that you may be seeing more of going forward. It is now being blended with cotton for use in the denim market, and is also being tested is in the swimwear market. In fact, Asics® Japan has developed a swimsuit made of a blend of polyolefin and Lycra®, as the official swimsuit for the Japanese Olympic Swim Team. Their main reason for selecting polyolefin is that it's the least absorbent of all the manufactured fibers, and is the only fiber that floats. (Swimmers will try anything to cut a milli-second off their times!) Manufactured Fiber - cellulosic-based from wood pulp CHARACTERISTICS:
MAJOR END USES: Comments - One of the major characteristics of rayon, also called viscose, centers around the care of the fabric. For those of you who have been around rayon a lot, you know that there are both washable and "dry clean only" rayons in the garments that you sell. Why are there both washable and non-washable rayons? Originally rayon was a "dry clean only" fiber. However, the fiber producers discovered that they could create washability in rayon by putting certain finishes on the surface of the fabric after it was knitted or woven. But this also added to the price. So, today many rayons in the marketplace remain untreated, and are therefore "dry clean only." It's very important to read the labels, and make the customer aware that just because he or she may have purchased a washable rayon last week, that doesn't mean that all rayons are washable. Anytime a rayon garment, labeled "dry clean only," is washed, a risk is taken, and one of three things may happen. First the garment can shrink tremendously, sometimes as much as two or three sizes. Second, the garment may fade, or a printed pattern may bleed. And third, the fabric may lose its soft hand. The rayon that was once soft and drapeable may become stiff and harsh. There´s also something important to remember when caring for the washable rayons. Most of the washable rayon garments today are labeled "hand wash, cool water, drip dry or dry flat." And, it's important that these directions are followed, because when rayon is wet, it actually loses 30% to 50% of its strength. So, hand washing, like the label says, is the best. The constant agitation of the washer, and tumbling of the dryer will beat the garment against the side of the washer and dryer. And, eventually this causes the fiber to break down, and shorten the life of the rayon garment. So, in order to get the maximum life out of your washable rayon garment, it's best to hand wash and drip/hang dry. Manufactured Fiber CHARACTERISTICS:
MAJOR END USES: Comments - Lycra® is the most familiar spandex fiber, and is DuPont's brand name for its spandex fiber. An interesting fact about spandex is that it was developed as a substitute for rubber. And, when it was first introduced in 1959, it totally revolutionized the swimwear and foundations industry. Although it has poor strength, it stretches over 500%. So, the excellent stretch of spandex compensates for the fact that it's a weak fiber. Manufactured Fiber - cellulosic fiber made from seaweed CHARACTERISTICS:
MAJOR END USES: BACKGROUND Seaweed is a renewable, cellulosic fiber that has its origins in the world’s ocean waters. When blended with other cellulosic fibers, it can be used to manufacture woven and knitted fabrics. Since ancient times, Chinese medicine has used seaweed to protect the skin, because of its anti-inflammatory qualities. Seaweed's richness in trace elements is well known. Fabrics made from seaweed fiber are said to harness the benefits of deep-sea minerals and the trace elements. In the early 2000s, advanced technologies in seaweed production made this fiber usable in the production of apparel. PRODUCTION Seaweed fiber is water-soluble and serves as the holding fiber. The seaweed is usually combined with the cellulose from the eucalyptus tree during the lyocell production process. The eucalyptus serves as the 'functioning substrate' for the seaweed. When the cloth is finished, the alginate is dissolved. This eucalyptus fiber and seaweed blended fiber, when turned into a fabric, is said to contain numerous benefits for human skin. An antibacterial effect can also be achieved in seaweed fiber through the incorporation and activation of the metal ions into the seaweed during the lyocell process. In contrast, antimicrobial fibers produced by conventional methods are either surface-finished with antimicrobial active chemicals, or produced by incorporating organic substances with antimicrobial effects. The favorable textile properties of fibers produced by the lyocell production process are not adversely affected by the incorporation of seaweed or by activation to obtain an antibacterial fiber. Manufactured Fiber - sustainable fiber made from soy by-products CHARACTERISTICS:
MAJOR END USES: BACKGROUND The manufacture of soybean fiber dates back to the 1930s and 40s. Henry Ford is attributed with introducing soy fabrics into the market. In 1938 Ford wore a soybean-blended necktie, which was said to be his favorite 75th birthday present. In 1941, the Detroit Times photographed Ford wearing the first known soybean suit and tie, made of a blend of soybean "wool" and sheep's wool. Prior to 1940, most of the upholstery for Ford cars was made from sheep's wool. However in that year, a pilot plant for soybean “wool� was built with the capacity to produce 1,000 pounds per day. Shortly thereafter, a blended fabric made of 25% soybean “wool� and 75% sheep's wool was used as the sidewall upholstery in many Ford cars. The fabric was used as car upholstery until World War II, when soybean fiber became a victim of the war, and was replaced by newer, less expensive man-made fibers like nylon. In 1999, a breakthrough in soybean fiber production made the mass manufacturing of soybean fiber realistic and economically viable. In 2003, the development of this production process was awarded the gold prize by the World Intellectual Property Organization (WIPO). This resurgence in the early 2000s came as a result of an increased interest in the development of more sustainable natural fibers. PRODUCTION Soybean fiber is a sustainable textile fiber made from renewable natural resources. The soybean protein fiber is actually made from the byproduct leftovers of soybean oil/tofu/soymilk production, which would normally be discarded. The production of this fiber is an effort to move textile production away from petrochemical textile products, and to turn waste into useful products. Utilizing high heat in the wet-spinning process, the protein liquids are forced through a spinneret, to make the liquid soy, which are solidified during the cool-down process. The byproducts of soybean production can be used as fodder or fertilizer. All secondary products used in the production of soybean fiber are harmless and are recyclable. Fabrics made from soy fiber are eco-friendly, and are so soft that some people call it "vegetable cashmere." Manufactured Fiber CHARACTERISTICS:
MAJOR END USES: Comments - This is the only manufactured fiber discussed today which is not produced in the United States. However, both the appearance and properties of triacetate are very similar to those of acetate. The major difference is that triacetate is washable. |
High Performance Aramid Fibers Click on a fiber to expand characteristics, click again to close |
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AROMATIC ARAMID (Kevlar®, Technora®, Vectran™, Nomex®)
AROMATIC ARAMID (Kevlar®, Technora®, Vectran™, Nomex®)
AROMATIC ARAMID (Kevlar®, Technora®, Vectran™, Nomex®)
Manufactured Fiber CHARACTERISTICS:
MAJOR END USES: Comments - Acrylic is a soft drapeable fabric which provides warmth without being heavy. It takes color beautifully. Although acrylic has traditionally been a fall/winter fabric, with a wonderful resemblance to wool, acrylic has recently been used in developing some light weight circular knits and blends which lend themselves to trans-seasonal dressing as well. Acrylic is comfortable to wear. It feels like wool. Yet, it is easy care and is machine washable or dry cleanable. |
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